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December in Mérida: Christmas, Traditions & the Yucatecan Winter
Updated: 6 days ago
What December
Feels Like
By December, Mérida has fully settled into its dry, cooler season. Rain becomes much less frequent, humidity drops, and the days are generally sunny and pleasant. When rain does arrive, it is often associated with a Norte, the name we use for the cold fronts that move through the Yucatán Peninsula.
A Norte can bring light rain, overcast skies, cooler temperatures, and a noticeable breeze. They can make Mérida feel surprisingly cool, particularly in the mornings and evenings.
On these days, try to resist the urge to cuddle up at Los Colores de Mérida B&B amongst the holiday decorations. But they are usually short-lived, and the majority of December days return to the sunny weather that makes Mérida such a popular winter destination.
December mornings are cool and comfortable, making them perfect for exploring Mérida Centro before the afternoon temperatures rise. By midday, it is time for lunch and perhaps an afternoon at Progreso or a few hours beside the pool at Los Colores. Then, as the sun begins to set, temperatures start to drop and you'll be happy to have packed something warmer for the evening.
What to pack for Decemeber in Merida
With the big range between daytime and nighttime temperatures, December is a month when packing a few extra layers really pays off. The nighttime temperatures are perfect for sleeping with the windows open, cuddled under your guest room's handmade Oaxaca blanket and between the linen sheets.
Natural-fiber clothing is still perfect for the daytime. Shorts, short-sleeved shirts, lightweight pants, and sundresses are all appropriate for December afternoons. But bring a sweater or two, and I recommend adding a light jacket for evenings and the occasional Norte.
After spending most of the summer in sandals, I often find myself reaching for something a little more substantial on my feet once December arrives. It always takes my feet a little extra time to adapt. A few blisters are inevitable.
And don't forget the sunscreen. Mérida has high UV levels year-round, so cooler temperatures do not mean the sun is any less intense.
Outdoor Living in Mérida.
December is when the outdoor spaces at Los Colores really begin to shine.
The gardens may be slowing down as some plants enter their winter dormancy, but there is still plenty of life to notice. With lower humidity, fewer insects, and cooler temperatures, spending time outside becomes much more comfortable.
Cool mornings are perfect for sitting on the front patio with a hot cup of hand-roasted Toesto coffee, served at breakfast each morning. At Los Colores, that can easily become part of your morning routine: coffee outside, a little conversation with the other guests, and then everyone gathering around the table for our handmade Yucatecan breakfast.
Later in the day, the gardens and pool become places to slow down after exploring Mérida. December is perfect for simply being outside, whether that means talking with guests on the patio, taking a swim in the afternoon sun, or working on my laptop on the outdoor sofa.
Staying in an authentic home in Mérida like Los Colores means you don't have to be doing something all the time. Sometimes the best part of the day is simply having somewhere comfortable to come home to.
December Arrives in Mérida
As the month progresses, Mérida begins to feel increasingly festive. Christmas decorations and seasonal traditions appear throughout the city.
Paseo de Montejo begins to sparkle with holiday lights, while restaurants and cafés fill their outdoor tables along the Corredor Gastronómico and Calle 60. The city feels lively without losing the everyday rhythm that makes Mérida such a great city to visit.
At Los Colores, our own holiday season begins with our annual Tree Trimming Party and Posada. Neighbors, friends, and guests gather together to decorate our Christmas trees, break the piñata, and fill the house with holiday music, laughter, and plenty of holiday spirit.
It is a very special Los Colores tradition that began 17 years ago in my little basement apartment in Washington, DC. It's something we look forward to each year, and I love welcoming guests back to Los Colores to share this special holiday tradition with us.
December at Los Colores
One of the guest rooms that becomes especially popular in December is La Habitación Verde, thanks to its private furnished terrace.
By this time of year, the terrace is perfect at almost any time of day. Imagine waking up, stepping outside with your coffee, stretching, breathing in the cool morning air, and listening to the birds before joining the other guests for breakfast.
That is a very different way to experience Mérida than simply booking a room and heading out each morning. At Los Colores, the guest rooms, gardens, pool, breakfast table, and shared spaces are all part of the experience of staying in an authentic Mérida home.
And if you're planning a December stay, remember that booking 45+ days in advance gives you access to our best rates and availability when booking directly through the Los Colores website. December is a popular time to visit Mérida, so planning ahead can make a real difference.
Mérida Weather in December
Daytime highs: Around 85°F–88°F (29°C–31°C)
Nighttime lows: Around 66°F–68°F (18°C–20°C)
Rainfall: Low, as December is part of Mérida's drier winter season
Nortes: Occasional cold fronts can bring cooler temperatures, cloud cover, breezes, and light rain
Humidity: Noticeably lower than during Mérida's summer and rainy season
The result is one of the most comfortable times of year to experience Mérida, Yucatán: sunny afternoons, cooler evenings, and weather that makes it easy to spend your days exploring the city and your evenings enjoying the outdoors.
Life in Mérida &
Los Colores
Los Colores is in a traditional area of the Santiago neighborhood in Mérida Centro. Many of the locally owned shops, cocinas económicas, and cafés still close in the afternoon, following the traditional rhythm of the siesta yucateca. This isn't simply a Spanish custom imported to Yucatán. It is part of the everyday rhythm of life in Mérida and is closely connected to the heat of the day and the traditional importance of lunch as the main meal.
Not everyone, and not every neighborhood in Centro, still follows this tradition. But in our little section of Centro, most people still do. You will often find me cooling off in the pool during an afternoon break for my own version of the siesta yucateca. And if you're in Mérida long enough, you may find yourself falling into the same rhythm.
Your December day might begin with a cool morning walk along Paseo de Montejo, before the cars begin to fill this iconic boulevard. You'll be accompanied by people walking their dogs, runners, and, of course, the birds. Lots of birds singing.
This is also a beautiful time to photograph some of the enormous mansions that line Paseo de Montejo. The morning sunlight creates wonderful shadows across their facades. Paseo will be decorated for the holidays during December, but you'll have to return after dark to see it all lit up.
When you return to Los Colores de Mérida B&B, breakfast will already be waiting around a table dressed for the holidays. The other guests and I will be there to greet you as you return. On the table will be the first of four courses in your Yucatecan-style breakfast, along with your Toesto coffee, just the way you like it. Maybe there will even be a slice of Pan de Tepache waiting on your colorful place setting.
This unique bread has been months in the making. It was inspired by the bicycle vendors you'll find riding around the neighborhood, blowing their distinctive whistles to let you know they are nearby. They are selling an ice-cold drink called tepache, made with fermented pineapple, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and piloncillo. The flavor is unmistakably Yucatecan.
It's time to relax and settle into breakfast with the other guests. In the background, you'll hear holiday music reminding you that the season has arrived.
Los Colores will be decorated for Christmas, and the fragrance of pine will fill the air. After our 17th Annual Tree Trimming Party and Posada, the trees will be filled with unique ornaments collected from attendees over the past 17 years. You can spend quite a bit of time just looking and discovering what is there. Every ornament is unique and connected to a special person, and some even have their own stories.
A Little Christmas in Mérida.
At the markets, you'll find Nochebuenas, the poinsettias that are everywhere during the holiday season. They are much larger than the ones I remember from the States. After talking to Zoila at Mercado Santiago, I learned that they can actually grow into trees and are native to this region, which helps explain why they can be so much larger than the poinsettias I grew up with.
I always order mine from Zoila to decorate the house at Los Colores. I put last year's in the garden after Christmas. They survived and even thrived for a few months until the ants discovered them and ate them bare.
As the sun begins to fade, Los Colores and Mérida begin to sparkle with holiday lights. There will be plenty of places to explore and experience the festive atmosphere: a holiday village in Parque La Plancha, holiday lights along Calle 60 in Centro, and a life-sized nativity scene in Plaza Grande. You'll find Christmas scenes like these throughout Mérida.
And if you're lucky, you might encounter a Caravana Navideña. I love these! A Caravana Navideña is a spontaneous group of cars covered in over-the-top Christmas decorations. It will make you stop in your tracks and smile from ear to ear. Don't worry, you won't look like a tourist with your camera out taking video. We all do it.
Christmas Foods in Yucatán
December also brings traditional foods that you may not encounter at other times of year.
Sandwichón is a quirky but fiercely loved holiday staple in Yucatán. It is a massive, multi-layered sandwich loaf made by slicing white bread horizontally and filling it with layers of deli meats, pâtés, and spreads. The entire loaf is then "frosted" with cream cheese or pimento cheese and decorated with things like chopped nuts, cherries, capers, or pineapple.
I will never forget the first time I tried it.
I had gone to pick up some of our hand-roasted coffee from Toesto, and José Luis wrapped up a slice of Sandwichón for me as a gift. When I got home, I quickly made some coffee and sat down outside for an afternoon coffee and what I thought was cake.
After a couple of small bites, I realized that what I thought was a layer cake was something completely different. I wasn't sure what I was eating, or even if I liked it, but I couldn't stop eating it.
I've now grown to love it.
You will definitely find Sandwichón on the buffet table at our Tree Trimming Party. You might be put off by the description, but it's worth a try. This is an authentic holiday tradition you won't want to skip.
Agua de Chaya con Lima is another favorite. Chaya is a tree leaf native to the Yucatán, and blended with fresh lime it makes a wonderfully refreshing drink. You'll definitely find it on the breakfast table some mornings at Los Colores, replacing our usual sun tea during December.
And finally, there is Caballeros Pobres, or "Poor Gentlemen," the Yucatecan version of French toast. Slices of bread are soaked in milk, dipped in whipped egg whites, fried until golden, and served with a sweet syrup flavored with Xtabentún, sliced almonds, and cinnamon.
This is the kind of dish that makes sense around a full breakfast table, surrounded by other people. So you will definitely see it on the Los Colores breakfast menu in December..
December at Los Colores
December has already become a special time at Los Colores because repeat guests are beginning to return for the holidays. I am so happy to know that we have become part of our guests' holiday traditions.
I hope that, with each December, Los Colores will be filled with family and friends who have made an annual trip to Mérida and Los Colores part of their holiday tradition.
If you're planning a trip to Mérida for the holidays, now is the time to reserve your stay. Booking 45+ days in advance gives you access to our best rates and availability when booking directly through the Los Colores website.
So if you've been eyeing La Habitación Amarilla, with its king-size bed and walk-in closet, for Christmas week, or perhaps the two beds in La Habitación Rosa for the Tree Trimming Party, now is the time to book.
I don't want to miss you for the holidays!
Celebrations and Traditions
December is filled with so much to do! In the years before my dream of opening Los Colores became a reality, I would come to Mérida and stay for about three weeks every December. It is a special time to be here, with so much to see, experience, eat, and celebrate.
The 17th Annual Tree Trimming Party and Posada December 6 | 4:00–10:00 PM
This is a very special event for me. The tradition started 17 years ago in Washington, DC, and quickly grew into an important part of the beginning of so many people's holiday celebrations.
The Tree Trimming Party is by invitation only, and those invitations are extended to our overnight guests.
Before opening the B&B, I dreamed of hosting the Tree Trimming Party at Los Colores one day. This year will be the third time we've celebrated it here.
The party has changed a little since moving to Mérida. The traditional decorating of the Christmas tree is now combined with a posada. Part of that local tradition is to break a piñata filled with candy and treats. The new tradition of breaking a piñata has brought an entirely different energy to the Annual Tree Trimming Party, and I love it.
I have a very special memory from the first Tree Trimming Party I held here at Los Colores. Doña Marta, one of the neighbors, was very concerned about whether I would like the ornament she chose and asked to show it to me in advance. Of course, I told her that I would love it because it came from her. When she arrived at the party and gave it to me, I was filled with so much happiness because the tree, after 15 years, finally had a tree topper. She was the first person in all those years to bring this special ornament. These are the types of memories we have from the party.
Nochebuena in Yucatán
Another important part of December in Yucatán is Nochebuena, Christmas Eve. December 24 is traditionally the main family celebration, with families gathering for a large evening meal before continuing the festivities late into the night..
A Nochebuena celebration can include traditional holiday foods such as roast pork, tamales, bacalao a la vizcaína, or stuffed turkey. Depending on the family, there may also be piñatas, fireworks, dancing, gifts, and a visit to church for Misa de Gallo, the traditional Midnight Mass.
And remember those Nochebuenas, the poinsettias I mentioned earlier? The name itself means "Christmas Eve," which is one reason the plant has become so closely associated with the holiday season in Mexico.
The poinsettia is native to Mexico, and its history here goes back long before Christmas celebrations. The Maya knew the plant as cuetlaxóchitl. Today, you'll see its brilliant red leaves everywhere during December, from markets and homes to public spaces throughout Mérida.
December in Mérida
A reason I enjoy spending December in Mérida is that the holiday season doesn't feel confined to one particular place or one particular event. It unfolds throughout the city.
There are Christmas lights, decorations, food, music, family gatherings, neighborhood celebrations, posadas, and traditions that have been passed from one generation to the next.
And then there are the traditions that are a little newer, a little more personal, and perhaps a little less expected, like a Christmas tree covered in 17 years of memories, a Yucatecan piñata hanging in the garden, or a guest sitting around the breakfast table at Los Colores discovering Caballeros Pobres for the first time.
That is what I enjoy about December in Mérida. You don't have to choose between experiencing the traditions of the city and creating your own. There is room for both.
Things to Do
There is always something happening here in Mérida in December, from holiday celebrations and music in the parks to shopping for something made here and, of course, eating your way through the city. Here are a few things I think are worth adding to your December plans.
Felices Juntos: Invierno
01 December | 5:00–7:00 PM
This event has quickly become very popular, and with good reason! Felices Juntos brings together Mérida’s creative community, with local artists, fashion designers, musicians, DJs, cafés, chefs, and other makers all coming together for an evening to celebrate our local creatives and be happy together.
The atmosphere is lively and welcoming, with a great mix of people from Mérida and visitors from around the world. Save the date on your calendar and check back here for updates as we continue putting together the details and announce the participants.
Remate de Paseo de Montejo Tree Lighting
Date and time to be announced
The holiday season officially begins with the lighting of the giant Christmas tree at the Remate de Paseo de Montejo, along with the decorations that transform this iconic boulevard for the holidays.
The exact date, time and details for this year's lighting have not yet been announced, so check back for updates.
Christmas Village at Parque La Plancha
Dates and schedule to be announced
Gran Parque La Plancha becomes especially festive during December with its Christmas Village, bringing holiday lights, decorations, entertainment and, of course, Santa to one of Mérida's newest and most popular parks.
The village typically runs throughout the holiday season, with special weekend performances in the evening. I'll update this section as the official 2026 schedule is announced.
Tuesdays | 8:00 PM | Parque de Santiago
If you're looking for an authentic evening in Mérida, Remembranzas Musicales is one of the city's most joyful weekly traditions. Every Tuesday, Parque de Santiago fills with music and dancing as locals and visitors gather for an evening of classic Latin rhythms.
The live orchestra plays danzón, mambo, cha-cha-cha, boleros, and other favorites. The dance floor quickly fills with couples who have been dancing together for years, alongside people discovering this Mérida tradition for the first time. And don't be surprised if someone invites you to dance!
You don't need to be an experienced dancer. In fact, I think part of the fun is simply sitting back and watching the scene unfold. You might find me and some friends nearby the dance floor at one of the plastic tables, eating our way through tacos and tostadas at Panuchos Yucatecos. Make sure to say HOLA if you do see us! I've been trying as many taco stands across Centro as I can, and this is still my favorite. If Andrea is working, I always ask to sit in her section because she usually has lots of chisme, which always makes the evening even more enjoyable.
Shop for a Guayabera at the Expo Tekit Capital de la Guayabera
December | Parque de Santa Ana | Dates and hours to be announced
If you've ever wanted to take home a guayabera from Yucatán, December is a great time to do it. The annual Expo Tekit Capital de la Guayabera brings families from Tekit to Parque de Santa Ana, where generations of guayabera makers come to Mérida to sell their work.
Many of these families have been making guayaberas for generations, carrying on a craft that is deeply connected to the community of Tekit. You'll find traditional styles as well as clothing for women and children, and the prices are fair for the quality of the work.
I love shopping at the festival. In fact, I probably love it a little too much. Every year I tell myself I'm not going to go because I certainly don't need another guayabera. And every year I somehow end up buying just one more.
What makes your purchase special and important is the support you're giving to families in Yucatán who have carried this craft from one generation to the next, and you're taking home something that was actually made here.
I'll add the 2026 dates and hours here as soon as they are announced.
Take a Tour of Small Yucatecan and Mayan Communities outside of Mérida
If you want to experience more of Yucatán beyond the usual sightseeing stops, I recommend taking a tour into one of the communities outside of Mérida. In fact, you can take a tour of Tekit, just as I did.
I partner with a wonderful tour coop that supports Indigenous and small communities outside of Mérida by connecting visitors with people and places that you might otherwise never experience. The money you pay for the experience goes back into the community you visited. As one of my partners, I can also help you arrange your tour and make sure you receive my preferred pricing.
I only recommend activities and restaurants that I've experienced myself, and my Tekit tour was an experience that stayed with me. I was met by two guides who took me around the town and directly into people's homes. I learned traditional cooking techniques for Mexican pan dulce, met a wonderful woman who showed me how she creates the embroidered designs that Tekit is famous for, visited a traditional Maya solar, learned about our local stingless Melipona bees, and was welcomed into a home for a traditional Yucatecan meal where I learned to make tortillas.
It's a very different way to experience Yucatán, and one that lets you meet the people and communities behind the traditions you're seeing.
Try a Sandwichón
And now for something very Yucatecan!
If you've never tried sandwichón, December is a good time to change that. This layered savory cake is a Yucatecan favorite and a staple at celebrations and family gatherings.
For a place specifically dedicated to sandwichones, check out Adamarys Sandwichones on Calle 30 in López Mateos. This isn't going to be on every visitor's Mérida food checklist, which is exactly why I think it's worth seeking out. You won't find this everywhere.
It's not fancy. It's not a tourist attraction. It's simply one of those very Yucatecan things most travelers will miss.
With so much happening throughout the month, December is a wonderful time to slow down and experience Mérida beyond the usual tourist itinerary. If you're planning a December visit, consider making Los Colores de Mérida B&B your home in Mérida. I live here, welcome my guests personally, and love helping them discover the places, food, traditions, and people that make Mérida special beyond the usual tourist spaces.
Planning your December stay? Check our rooms, rates, and availability and come spend a little time with us in Mérida.
Choose Your Itinerary in Mérida
How much time do you have? Three days gives you a taste of Mérida. Five days lets you settle into the rhythm of the city. Stay a full week, and Los Colores de Mérida B&B starts to feel a little like home.
These are ideas, not schedules. Leave room to follow your curiosity, change your plans, or simply enjoy an afternoon by the pool.
A Long Weekend
3 Days
Visit Mérida for a quick holiday break!
Arrive at Los Colores, where I’ll welcome you personally and show you around your new home, even if you’re only staying with us for a few days. You won’t want to waste any time, so put your bags down, freshen up, and head out to start exploring.
Start in Santa Ana, where you can shop for a very special handmade guayabera for one of the favorite men on your holiday list at the Expo Tekit Capital de la Guayabera. While you’re there, visit the Centro de Artes Visuales (CAV) to see what’s new in this contemporary art space. Stop at Mercado Santa Ana for tacos at Taquería Mary’s, then make your way down Paseo de Montejo to take in the holiday lights while enjoying a marquesita.
The next morning, join a morning run group at Estamina Café before returning to Los Colores for breakfast with your fellow guests. You’ll have no problem finishing our four-course Yucatecan breakfast! After breakfast, take the free walking tour I recommend to learn about the history of Mérida, beginning with the ancient Maya city of T’Hó. It’s a great way to get oriented and see the city from a different perspective
In the afternoon, try something a little different with pre-Hispanic food and small-batch mezcal at Casa Ritual.
As evening arrives, head to Plaza Grande to see the nativity and holiday lights, and catch a Pok Ta Pok demonstration. Then enjoy the beautiful view of Plaza Grande from your table at Picheta.
Hopefully, before you leave Mérida, you’ll have a chance to encounter the Caravana Navideña. It makes for some amazing videos and is a fun way to end your quick holiday visit.
Settle In
5 Days
Relax, breathe a little easier, and stay a little longer. Five days gives you a chance to slow down and let Mérida unfold at its own pace.
Arrive at Los Colores and settle into La Habitación Rosa, with its two beds and largest bathroom. It’s perfect for two friends traveling together for the holidays.
Once you've settled in, grab an afternoon meal and coffee at Toesto. Get a feel for the neighborhood, meet José Luis and his family, and try the coffee beans they hand-roast there and that I serve each morning at Los Colores.
Spend some time shopping for gifts at Expo Tekit Capital de la Guayabera, especially if you have a special man in your life who deserves something made here. Then take the free walking tour I recommend to learn about the history of Mérida, beginning with the ancient Maya city of T’Hó. Later, head to Plaza Grande to see the holiday lights and nativity.
For an evening out, enjoy a meal at Chaya Maya Casona in Santa Lucía, then stay for the Serenata in the park. Another evening, ride along Paseo de Montejo during the Biciruta Nocturna and take in the holiday lights and decorations. Stop for a classic frozen treat that locals have been enjoying for more than 100 years at Dulcería y Sorbetería Colón.
Take a day trip to Puerto Progreso, walk along the malecón, enjoy fresh seafood, and feel the sand beneath your toes.
Don't forget to catch the tree lighting at El Remate and walk through the sparkling holiday village at La Plancha while enjoying a marquesita.
And, of course, make time for Felices Juntos: Invierno at Los Colores.
Feel at Home
7 Days
A full week lets you settle into the slower rhythm Get your tour of your new home in Mérida at Los Colores de Mérida B&B, then settle into La Habitación Amarilla, our largest guest room, with its walk-in closet and plenty of space to make yourself comfortable.
Enjoy a slow afternoon poolside in the gardens. Try salpicón at Adamarys, then head to Panuchos Yucatecos for tacos and stay for an evening of mambo and dancing at Parque de Santiago.
Try sandwichón on the buffet when you attend the 17th Annual Tree Trimming Party and Posada, and don't forget to bring your ornament!
Visit the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, then head out to see the Coca-Cola tree lit up for the holidays and play some Carnaval games.
Spend some time exploring Plaza Grande, visit Museo Casa Montejo, see the Catedral de San Ildefonso, and stop at the Palacio de Gobierno to see the murals depicting the Caste War.
Let me arrange a tour to Celestún, where you can take a boat through the mangroves of the biosphere, see thousands of migratory flamingos, and enjoy a seafood lunch on the beach.
Spend your Sunday exploring Centro by bike during Biciruta, shop for gifts at Mérida en Domingo, and try al pastor at Taquería Montejo. Stay long enough to see Centro lit up for the holidays.
And then, slow down.
Linger over breakfast at Los Colores with a market-fresh chaya con limón drink alongside our Los Colores carnitas and egg tacos, Pan de Chocolate Mexicano, and fresh, tropical fruits. Spend a little extra time at the pool, admiring the big tree that keeps watch over Los Colores.
After seven days, you may find that Mérida doesn't feel quite so much like a place you visited. It feels a little more like home.
Staying seven nights or more? Our Slow Travel rate gives you 10% off your stay. Use code SLOW10 when you book directly with Los Colores.
Make Los Colores Your Home
Until You Get Here
I hope this journal gives you a little sense of what December in Mérida feels like, but there is really only one way to find out.
Come experience it for yourself.
I’ll be here, with the coffee on, the pool ready, and probably one more guayabera than I actually need.
Come stay for a while at Los Colores de Mérida B&B. Check room availability and make Mérida your home for a while.
Stay Here for a While.
Tu Hogar en Mérida.
Hasta pronto!
Richie
Planning ahead? Booking 45 days or more in advance gives you access to our best available rates and room availability, exclusively through our website.
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